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 Chartogne,
40% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; the balance Meunier. This evolved
fascinatingly in the glass, changing its profile and structure. I first noted it
as less appley than last year's, but rather smooth and discreet,
down-the-middle. Nothing wrong with that, but we like our farmer-fizz to be a
little angular. But in ten minutes all this flavor started slithering out,
vigorous and elegant with the detailed floweriness of the best 1997s.
Brut Millessime 95 ONE OF THE FEW BEST
VALUES IN THIS OFFERING. This is what most Americans recognize as "great
Champagne," by the way. It has the 90 point flavor!
Price: $35.10. To order click here:
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Chartogne Taillet Brut Champagne, Cuvée Fiacre
This is about the swankest Champagne I offer. It will be even
more so with its handsome new label. I loved a quote Chartognes gave to Tom
Stevenson, who remarked upon the extraordinary polish of this wine: "If you keep
good stocks of reserve wine, there's no reason why grower Champagne has to taste
rustic." No reason indeed! Because this is glorious Champagne by any standards:
a coeur de cuvée from old vines.
Price: $34.54. To order click here:
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It, Now! l
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